Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Men's Week: Fragrances


Fragrance can be lingerie: it is worn close to the skin and sometimes only you know that you are wearing it.  I think the secret of finding a signature scent, or developing a personal fragrance wardrobe, is to wear what makes you feel good in your skin.  Perfumes can smell different on people and certainly different comparing a paper tester and on your skin!  Scent is famously known for being closely linked to memory.  When I come across a guy whose fragrance turns my head, I remember! Two examples: In high school a classmate named Angel wore Acqua di Gio, which is nice but not great in the bottle or on a paper tester, but as he passed by my desk one day, I spun around in my chair and demanded what he was wearing.  In college I used to hang out with this guy I wasn't 100% fond of, but I really liked being around him when he sprayed on Angel for Men, and that is one I am certainly not crazy about.  And sometimes when I see a picture on the internet of a well-suited and impeccably groomed man, or when I like a character in a movie, I wonder what cologne he would wear...

When I used to work at Bloomingdale's, there were two men's fragrances I loved to spritz on myself - Viktor & Rolf's Antidote and YSL's L'Homme.  I wasn't a huge fan of Flowerbomb because I thought it was too heavy, and although Antidote was heavy as well, there was something about it that worked for me.  L'Homme I loved so much, I bought it!  Whenever I would spray this one on in the store all my female coworkers would sniff me like crazy, "ohmigosh you smell soooo good!!!" LOL. I love the metallic edge it has to it. 

If you are hesitant to step over the feminine/masculine boundaries, you can always try a unisex perfume... remember a little thing called CK One?   On most fragrance entries, LuckyScent.com has a  neat slider on a scale from femme to masculine (unisex is in the middle) to show you where the current fragrance lies.  In their top picks, they do have a list of top Unisex purchases, gs02 is one of them that looks very interesting to me. 

Luca Turin ad Tania Sanchez list the best overall masculine fragrances as:
Azzaro pour Homme (lavender, basil, sandalwood)
Beyond Paradise Men (lavender, tarragon, sage, vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli)
Cool Water (rosemary, sage, sandalwood, amber)
Derby (a re-issue that is rare to find.. there is a Derby offered by Bergdorf Goodman)
Eau de Guerlain (lemon, bergamot, neroli, tonka bean)
Habit Rouge (citrus, vanilla, leather)
New York (bergamot, Sicilian lemon, cloves, thyme, cinnamon, black pepper, pimento, oak moss, vetiver, amber)
Ormonde Men (juniper berry, bergamot, cardamon, oudh, vetiver, sandalwood, musk)
Pour Monsieur (amber, musk)
Timbuktu (green mango, pink pepper berries, cardamom, karo karounde flower, smokey incense of papyrus wood, patchouli, myrrh, vetiver)

The best masculines for women are:
Beyond Paradise Men
Cool Water
Dior Homme (Lavender, Sage, Cardamom, Iris, Cocoa Bean, Amber, Vetiver, Patchouli, Leather)
Eau Sauvage(Lemon, Rosemary, Petit Grain, Basil, Water Jasmine,Vetiver)
Jules (black pepper, Russian leather, sandalwood)
New York
Pour un Homme (lavender, vanilla)
Timbuktu
Yatagan (celery, musk)
Yohji Homme (coffee, rum, licorice)

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